A DIY drip irrigation system that automates watering—delivers water to plant roots on schedule, saving water and reducing labor time.
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Although it may seem complex at first glance, the automatic garden watering system I built is actually quite straightforward. It pumps water from a 20-meter-deep well into a 1.000-liter tank positioned 4 meters above ground. From there, gravity allows the water to flow and irrigate the entire garden without any additional energy consumption or cost. An added benefit is that the water reaches the plants at a more moderate temperature, unlike the colder water drawn directly from the well. Previously, I achieved good results watering plants located 20–30 meters away from a tank positioned just 2 meters above ground.
Due to low water pressure, the system is not suitable for lawn sprinklers. However, it works effectively in all types of drip irrigation setups.
Pipe and Hose Inventory List: PEHD PE100 PN10 Pipe Ø40 mm PEHD PE100 PN10 Pipe Ø32 mm 19 mm Hose 12.5 mm Hose 12.5 mm Drip Hose
Inventory List:
Optional Components:
Always refer to the official wiring guidelines provided by the manufacturer of your smart switch. Even within the Shelly product line, wiring instructions may vary between product versions or releases. For your safety and to ensure proper functionality, consult the latest official documentation before installation.
For this project the wiring from left to the right was done as follows:
The float switch used in this project has three wires, but only two are required — typically a combination of black and red or black and blue. Always refer to the specific wiring instructions provided with your float switch to determine the correct configuration. If you accidentally switch the wires, there’s no issue: the Shelly Plus 1PM includes an "Invert" option that allows you to reverse the input logic in the software settings. For the ground wires (both IN and OUT cables) I have used a clamp.
Supplementary step to connect the temperature sensors: I have connected the two temperature sensors to the Shelly Plus Add-On and then assemble with Shelly Plus 1PM.
After completing the wiring, I arranged all components neatly inside the project box. I used electrical tape to secure the float switch and temperature sensors together, helping to keep them stable and prevent wear from movement inside the tank. The components can be observed in the picture are as follows:
To verify the float switch functionality, plug in a lamp (or another low-power device). Change the position of the float switch and observe the lamp's behaviour. When the float switch is UP (tank is full), the lamp should turn OFF. When the float switch is DOWN (tank is low), the lamp should turn ON. This confirms the correct logic of the float switch input. If the behaviour is reversed, you can swap the wiring position of the float switch cables, or use the "Invert" option in the Shelly interface to reverse the input logic without altering the wiring.
Additionally, the system’s ON/OFF status can be viewed in real time via the Shelly Plus 1PM web interface.
You can use an electrical plug that includes a built-in float switch together with a timer. This setup provides a basic level of automation and can be suitable for straightforward water pump control.
However, using such a solution means you won't benefit from the smart features offered by the Shelly Plus 1PM, such as:
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